Gem Cuts and Shapes: How to Choose a Gemstone

Selecting the ideal gem for your jewelry can require a bit more thought than choosing your favorite stone color. Precious and semiprecious gemstones come in various shapes and cuts, which can alter the appearance of the stone and thus your jewelry. Certain shapes and cuts suit specific applications, like a ring or a bracelet, so it’s important to know which ones work well for each type of jewelry. 

Our comprehensive guide explains different gemstone cuts and gives common gem shapes so you can select the best option for your custom jewelry. 

What’s the Difference Between the Shape and Cut of a Gemstone?

While many people use the terms “shape” and “cut” interchangeably when referring to a gemstone, a gemstone’s shape and a gemstone’s cut are two very different things: 

• The shape of a gemstone is the general outline of the stone, the shape of it as seen from above. 
• The cut of a gemstone refers to the number, size, and arrangement of its facets, the smooth and polished cuts of the stone — all of which enhance its sparkle.

Types of Gemstone Shapes

Gemstone shapes fall into one of two categories: round or fancy shape. Anything that’s not round is considered a fancy shape. When you’re considering purchasing a gemstone, shape is likely one of the first features you’ll notice. There’s no single best shape for a gemstone; it comes down to preference. However, depending on the type of jewelry you are designing or your general style preferences, different gemstone shapes may appeal.

Popular Gemstone Shapes

While the round gemstone category refers to a single shape, the fancy gemstone category can include a variety of shapes. Here are some popular choices:

Round

This one is fairly self-explanatory: A round gemstone is, well, round — the shape of a circle. The type of cut for a round gemstone may vary based on the type of stone. A brilliant round has more sparkle than any other cut. It is often the most expensive style due to the extensive time and expertise necessary to produce numerous cuts. (Round refers to the shape, and brilliant refers to the cut.) 

Fancy Shapes

Fancy shapes include any gemstone shape that’s not round — and the list is long! Some shapes are harder to find, but these below are some of the most popular: 

Oval

The oval shape is a style that features an elongated stone with smooth, rounded ends. It typically has a brilliant cut or mixed cut, with many facets, similar to the round brilliant, giving the gem a high-quality fire and excellent sparkle.   

Marquise

This style is similar to an oval as it has an elongated shape, but with two pointed ends. It is a modern take on a classic oval style, one that’s surging in popularity, and the cut features 57 facets to maximize the amount of light reflecting from the gem. 

Pear

A pear gemstone is also known as a teardrop. The cut boasts a rounded oval shape at one end and tapers to a point at the other, looking similar to a water droplet. It looks modern and elegant in a ring and can make your fingers appear elongated. This shape is also a popular choice in earrings and necklaces.

Heart

A heart-shaped gemstone is just how it sounds, the typical shape of a heart with two rounded portions at the top that come to a point at the bottom. Heart-shaped gemstones are especially unique and often have a brilliant cut. 

Cushion

Fittingly, the cushion shape looks like a cushion — or a pillow! This gemstone shape can be a square or a rectangle and typically has rounded corners. Some cushion gemstones may have a brilliant cut, but others could have an antique cushion (old mine) cut or a mixed cut. They can also be elongated or symmetrical. A cushion shape is a favorite for sapphires and other vibrant gemstones.

Emerald

This style gets its name from the emerald stone, as these gems were commonly given this rectangular shape. Whereas other cuts have facets that point to the gemstone’s center, an emerald-cut stone has vertical facets that run up and down, giving the stone unique clarity. It is the most flattering style for the green gem and other related stones since it allows a deep, vibrant color to shine as the light bounces around the interior. Emerald-shaped gemstones are a classic choice that will never go out of style.

Asscher

An Asscher-shaped gemstone is similar to an emerald shape, but it is square, not rectangular. All the sides have equal lengths. The corners of an Asscher gemstone may also be a bit deeper than an emerald shape.

Princess

The square shape and pointed edges of a princess gemstone look elegant in a cocktail ring, and you can readily enhance the style with smaller gems on the band. This style is popular for rings, as it exudes beauty and brilliance; however, we rarely recommend princess cuts for rings because the corners of the stone easily chip. 

Radiant

A radiant gem is shaped similarly to a princess style — the primary difference between the two is variety. Some radiant stones have round edges, and some stones are more rectangular than square. It is a flat style, which is perfect if you want an engagement ring that sits closer to your finger rather than having a high-sitting stone.

Baguette

This rectangular shape is named after the French word “baguette,” a long loaf of bread. As the name indicates, this gem has an elongated style with beautiful symmetry and clean lines. It is an ideal shape when you want a unique alternative to the classic round or emerald styles.

Hexagon

This shape is popular for moss agate rings and features a six-sided hexagon shape with stark, pointed corners. It is a more modern shape and a beautiful choice if you love a strong geometric style.

Types of Gemstone Cuts

A gemstone is extracted in a raw, rough state and goes through a refining process to result in a stunning, glimmering stone ready to use in jewelry. Part of this process includes cutting and shaping the gem. There are various gem cuts, but the three basic styles are brilliant cut, step cut, and mixed cuts. 

Faceters can combine various cutting styles and include numerous facets to produce any shape of gemstone. These small adjustments can change a gemstone’s appearance and brilliance. 

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant-cut gemstones produce the most sparkle and contain 57 or 58 kite and triangular facets extending out from the stone’s center. Brilliant cuts are often chosen for diamonds, especially in engagement rings, because of how they reflect light. 

Step Cut

Step cuts use rectangular facets to highlight the gem’s color and clarity. The cuts are straight lines that run symmetrically on each side of the gemstone. This cut style gets its name from the appearance of the cuts — they look like they stairstep down into the gemstone.

Mixed Cut

Mixed cuts combine a brilliant cut and a step cut to create a unique blend of the two styles. They have a similar sparkle to brilliant-cut gemstones, but the step cut adds symmetry to the overall look. The mixed cut is often used for oval, pear, and emerald shapes, among others.

Cabochon Cut

A cabochon cut gives a gemstone a smooth, domed shape, as viewed from the top, and typically a flat base. A cabochon is different from a faceted gem — the other cuts we’ve described above — and some historians have traced this style of cut back to ancient times.

Selecting the Ideal Gemstone Cut

A gemstone’s shape, number of facets, and light reflection will help determine the brilliance and color of the stone. A faceter will cut the stone into the ideal shape to highlight the gem’s clarity so it will sparkle just the way you expect. 

The best cut for a gemstone comes down to the stone itself, the type of jewelry you’re creating, and personal preference. Some cuts are better suited to rings, while others are ideal for necklaces or earrings. Our professional jewelers can provide you with knowledgeable advice about the best gemstone cuts for your jewelry design. But if you’re just starting to brainstorm ideas, keep these cuts and styles in mind for inspiration.

Custom Jewelry With JPratt Designs

We provide exceptional customer service and will guide you through the gemstone selection process. Our professional and knowledgeable design team and jeweler can help you answer questions such as whether to get a big or small gem, how many stones, and if you should go for a modern or classic look. Answering these questions can determine the best shape and size gemstone for your custom jewelry. 

Contact JPratt Designs for a comprehensive gemstone and jewelry consultation.